The Hosiery Center of the South
Burlington, NC
Burlington, NC
Full-fashion
hosieryTextile Heritage
Museum, Glencoe
Photo: Julie Mock
hosieryTextile Heritage
Museum, Glencoe
Photo: Julie Mock
The production of hosiery is basically split between socks, made for children and men, and sheer hosiery for
women.
Socks are made on coarse gauge circular knitting machines. Each general category requires a machine
uniquely designed to create the particular type of sock. Examples include argyles (diamonds), ribs (link and
link machines), fancy clock or stripes, and athletic socks (cushion sole machines). After knitting, each sock
must have the toe closed by seaming and is the finished. Finishing involves dyeing, boarding (to create
attractive and saleable shape), packaging (labels, etc.), and shipping. Sock mills may be vertically integrated,
that is, knitting, seaming and finishing. Mills may also do only the knitting and seaming and finishing. Mills
may also do only the knitting and seaming and then sell the “greige” socks to a vertical mill for dyeing and
finishing. During the first half of the 20th century, there were many “greige” mills in Alamance County, even the
so-called “garage” operator who had family members run six to ten machines in the garage. Since then, the
cottage industry disappeared as machines became more complex, expensive, and computerized.
The ladies hosiery industry in the first half of the 20th century, involved fine gauge (small diameter or “denier”
yarn) knitted on full fashion knitting machines. These machines, even then, were expensive, large, and
required highly skilled “fixers” or mechanics. The cottage industry similar to the sock industry, never could
take place as a result.
Full fashion knitting was done on a flat bed machine, as opposed to a seamless or circular knitting machine,
and the stockings were then folded over and seamed from the toe, up the back of the leg, to the top of the
thigh. This seaming was a highly skilled job. The stockings were then finished (dyed, boarded, and paired)
and folded into a tissue-lined box.
Around 1959-1965, seamless production began to replace full fashion. As time went on, full fashion
disappeared and seamless flourished with the advent of multi-feed machines, high speed and computer-
controlled patterning and yarns involving stretch nylon and spandex. Products were constantly being added,
such as knee-hi’s, tights, and panty hose. Today, the industry has declined with the advent of pantsuits and
bare legs, but Alamance County has truly been the Hosiery Center of the South and of the nation. James W.
Maynard 2009
This page is Copyright Gary N. Mock 2009
women.
Socks are made on coarse gauge circular knitting machines. Each general category requires a machine
uniquely designed to create the particular type of sock. Examples include argyles (diamonds), ribs (link and
link machines), fancy clock or stripes, and athletic socks (cushion sole machines). After knitting, each sock
must have the toe closed by seaming and is the finished. Finishing involves dyeing, boarding (to create
attractive and saleable shape), packaging (labels, etc.), and shipping. Sock mills may be vertically integrated,
that is, knitting, seaming and finishing. Mills may also do only the knitting and seaming and finishing. Mills
may also do only the knitting and seaming and then sell the “greige” socks to a vertical mill for dyeing and
finishing. During the first half of the 20th century, there were many “greige” mills in Alamance County, even the
so-called “garage” operator who had family members run six to ten machines in the garage. Since then, the
cottage industry disappeared as machines became more complex, expensive, and computerized.
The ladies hosiery industry in the first half of the 20th century, involved fine gauge (small diameter or “denier”
yarn) knitted on full fashion knitting machines. These machines, even then, were expensive, large, and
required highly skilled “fixers” or mechanics. The cottage industry similar to the sock industry, never could
take place as a result.
Full fashion knitting was done on a flat bed machine, as opposed to a seamless or circular knitting machine,
and the stockings were then folded over and seamed from the toe, up the back of the leg, to the top of the
thigh. This seaming was a highly skilled job. The stockings were then finished (dyed, boarded, and paired)
and folded into a tissue-lined box.
Around 1959-1965, seamless production began to replace full fashion. As time went on, full fashion
disappeared and seamless flourished with the advent of multi-feed machines, high speed and computer-
controlled patterning and yarns involving stretch nylon and spandex. Products were constantly being added,
such as knee-hi’s, tights, and panty hose. Today, the industry has declined with the advent of pantsuits and
bare legs, but Alamance County has truly been the Hosiery Center of the South and of the nation. James W.
Maynard 2009
This page is Copyright Gary N. Mock 2009
The pair of stockings are 51 gauge 15 denier monofilament reinforced heel and toe with 40/13 welt and
30/10 afterwelt. The seam is a self seam [dyed the same color as the stocking as opposed to being a dope
dyed black nylon seam]. Size 101/2 medium length.
30/10 afterwelt. The seam is a self seam [dyed the same color as the stocking as opposed to being a dope
dyed black nylon seam]. Size 101/2 medium length.